|(Forum Home)--->(GunTalk)--->(How do you repair a cracked or broken stock?)|
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|Former Seller: Goshen606(18-0-0)||Post#1 - Posted: 04/29/2007 at 21:30:19|
|(no avatar)||I can't say that this is this best way, but it's how I would do it. If it's completely into three pieces, I would get the stock apart, then using a good wire brush and going with the grain of the wood, try to remove as much of the old glue as possible. Try using a good wood glue like GORILLA GLUE or something similar and glue it back together, and try to clamp it together until the glue has time to cure. If its in a position that you can't clamp it, pre-drill holes into the pieces that have broken off, and use some sheet rock screws to hold the pieces together until they cure. After the glue cures you should be able to remove the screws with a good screw gun (cordless drill). If you have any cracks or residual glue from the gluing process, you could fill the cracks and the screw holes with wood putty, and sand any of the dried residual glue using some fine grit sandpaper like 180 or 220 grit. You may want to consider sanding the entire stock down and re-staining it. After staining it you could coat it with polyurethane like Min-Wax semi gloss. You may want to apply two or three coats of the Min-Wax, sanding the stock with 220 grit sand paper lightly between each coat. As I said, this is how I would do it. I can't say for sure how long it would hold, but it's the only way I can think of to try to repair it with out replacing it. Hope this helps, from a jack leg carpenter.|
|Buyer: Brettw1959(0-0-0)||Post#2 - Posted: 04/29/2007 at 22:45:09|
|(no avatar)||To add a little strength to the repair I would recommend drilling a few holes and inserting either wood dowels or brass rods (pins). It would also depend on the direction of the break, if it is length wise with the grain, this pins would work best coming from the bottom to the top. If it is across the grain such as in the wrist of the stock, I would go diagonally or inline with the stock (that's the hardest on to do) drilling the front and back at the right height can be a bit tricky. Good luck!|
|Thread Admin: jbc(117-0-1)||Post#3 - Posted: 04/30/2007 at 05:48:57|
|(no avatar)||Hey Thanks Guys. I forgot to put the information about the cracks or breaks. They run from about the bolt forward.Thanks John|
|Former Seller: Gun nut Bob(63-0-0)||Post#4 - Posted: 04/30/2007 at 06:22:16|
|(no avatar)||jbc; I have repaired a lot of broken stocks and it is a whole lot better if no one has attempted any repairs before. In your case that does not apply.
No matter what you are trying to glue never ever use contact cement. That is cement that when it makes contact it is there and stuck. About all contact cement is good for is to really screw things up.
In order to align the pieces you have to be able to move them once you have put them together and contact cement does not permit this.
I have never found a good way of removing old dried glue. It would be nice if you could find a solvent that would desolve it.I generally try to pick it off a little bit at a time without removing any wood.
One way I hold the pieces in alignment is with electricians stretchy plastic tape. You put the tape on with the sticky side out and as you stretch it with more and more layers it will actually squeeze the glue out of the cracks.
As to pins, screws, nails dowels, ect if you can avoid using them it is just a whole lot better, as to often they will split the wood and only make bad conditions even worse.
Also all oil, grease, stock finish, ect has to be removed from the wood being glued for the glue to stick.
Most of those inexpensive 22s had a very simple fitted stock and you just might be ahead to get a chunk of simular wood and make a new one because someone has unskillfully attempted repairs.
|Former Seller: axolotl(128-0-0)||Post#5 - Posted: 04/30/2007 at 09:56:20|
|As a former cabinet maker, one of our first things to learn is that screws and nails only hold the pieces in line until the glue dries. Avoid them if possible. We always used Titebond wood glue, We bought it in 55 gal drums. You should be able to find it in any good hardware store and if not any good epoxy glue would we a second choice. If you must use screws to hold the pieces, pre-drill your holes to avoid splitting. On stocks i repair here in the store i use a dremel tool on low speed with a wire wheel to remove any glue that won`t chip off. Frequently check your fit. While the glue will fill in gaps the real strength comes from where the fit is the closest. axolotl|
|Seller: ELDORADO 1(172-4-0)||Post#6 - Posted: 04/30/2007 at 10:16:38|
|(no avatar)||jbc, I just talked with my stock man who has been repairing stocks for the better part of 50 years and he says the best gluing agent he has ever used is acraglas which is availabe through Brownell's. He says it works on a catylst principle that heats up the pores of the wood causing deep penetration of the material and he says he has never seen one ever break apart in the same location if the wood was prepared properly prior to gluing.|
|Former Seller: quackilla(11-0-0)||Post#7 - Posted: 04/30/2007 at 12:44:08|
|jbc you have gotten some good advice I would like to put my 2cents worth in Ax hit on this but if you dont get all the old glue off your wasting your time. The Acraglass is good stuff!!! Watch out with the gorilla glue it has a tendency to expand I've done trim work for 25yrs and have found that the titebond works good too I also think you would be better off trying to peg the two together rather than screws or nails just make sure what you make your pegs out of is harder wood than the wood your trying to hold, you can use that dremel tool and chuck a bit in it and go ahead and oversize the hole for your pegs then use the gorilla glue to hold your pegs and use the acraglass to hold the stock to the stock. Quack|
|Former Seller: CIMARRON(48-0-0)||Post#8 - Posted: 04/30/2007 at 17:12:21|
|(no avatar)||The best I have ever found is Micro-bed. Get her clean and free of old glue. It is best if someone hasn't wired, screwed, nailed and other kitchen table attempts. One thing is, keep all the parts and splinters, take your time, don't over glue or over clamp. An extra few minutes and extra care will all come back to you when you are finnished. I have repaired Brownings,Coopers, Kimbers and high grade Sharps rifles and most of the time the client will argue that you put on a new stock and that aint the one he had. Thats when you hit him with the bill. The average shotgun, or rifle stock will take 6 or 8 hours to repair and refinnish. I once had a guy bring in a Shilo Sharps that he had leaned up against his pickup and walked out to his target. His wife thought she would save him part of the walk back and started driving out to meet him. He saw her drivivg and went balistic at which time she stopped and began backing up to put the pickup gack where it was, well she parked right on top of the new $2800.00 sharps. Broke the butt stock. Sharps wanted $500.00 to replace it and it would likely take a year for them to do it.I repaired it and it was totally undetectable. I asked him $150.00 and he made me take $200.00. Everytime I see him, he tells me how good it still is and he is happy with it. I think he has a different wife now but still shoots the sharps. A good sharps rifle is worth a lot more than a brain dead wife.|
|Seller: Elitist(90-0-0)||Post#9 - Posted: 04/30/2007 at 19:05:05|
|OK, then, let me interject a question here.
I have a very old Ohio rifle, made for my wife's grandfather about 1860 or so, by Sam Stull in Knox County. A small bore, and her father used it to hunt squirrels as a boy in the 20's and 30's. The stock is burl walnut and has fallen apart: it was, literally, held together with electrical tape when my father in law died and I got it.
I want very much to put this old stock back together. It probably will never happen that the rifle will be shot again (though it could be, everything else is in decent shape) but I certainly don't want to put a new stock on it.
The comments about Accraglas then lead me to ask: 1) what's the working time? How much "wiggle" do I have when putting the pieces together? 2) How long does it take to set up, and at what time can I go on to put the next piece on? 3) How small a piece is too small to use Accraglas with? Some of the chunks of this stock are fairly large bu some are finger-sized. 4) How about color matching? I assume Accraglas isn't going to take a stain or a finish of any kind. How obvious are the "seams" going to be?
I've never worked with the stuff, but I've done some wood gluing. I agree, Gorilla Glue will expand on curing and would cause me some problems. I was thinking about a resorcinol or resin-based wood glue, but I don't know if these are suitable or if they have an innate color that would detract from the appearance of the finished job.
|Buyer: 5thcommjarhead(31-0-0)||Post#10 - Posted: 04/30/2007 at 19:30:24|
|Quack - Loctite is now making a glue similar to Gorilla Glue (it used to be called "Gorilla Snot" but somehow the name didn't catch on) that does as well but doesn't expand as much. I just got some Elmer's Ultimate that is probably comparable, but I haven't had occasion to use it yet.
And Super Glue works great on fingers, but not much else.