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| (Forum Home)--->(Seller Forum)--->(Recommended finish for waterfowler? question for my seller friends) |
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| Seller: Elitist(61-0-0) | Post#1 - Posted: 01/24/2006 at 10:46:34 |
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Parkerizing. It's matte, dull green, and durable as any finish can be. A number of companies do this. Mil-Tech certainly can, though I don't know if they do it as a service. Might also try Doug Turnbull. |
| Seller: eastbank(14-0-0) | Post#2 - Posted: 01/24/2006 at 12:28:46 |
| (no avatar) | dura-coat is very good, and comes in several colors. i had it put on a T. C. encore last year, and it holds up well. i had their dark green finish put on. they bake it on, and the older it gets the harder it becomes. |
| Former Seller: Riverside Arms Service(916-0-2) | Post#3 - Posted: 01/30/2006 at 20:22:24 |
| (no avatar) | Krylon camo color spray paint. I use this on my heavy use shotguns. It is a good protector and easily touched up. Function is first not beauty in this case. |
| Thread Admin: texastradingpost(1275-0-0) | Post#4 - Posted: 01/30/2006 at 21:02:34 |
| (no avatar) | Thanks for the suggestions,
I am leaning towards duracoat. It was parked before, but I have pretty much worn it smooth. I have a paint finish on one of my barrels and it is not working for me, I have found rust under the paint. I cleaned and oiled my gun before this last hunt. Had the gun in the rain while standing in old flooded timber all morning. Plus the gun was submerged twice in water and muck. I was almost submerged with it one of those times! It already had a coat of rust showing on the action before we got back to the boat ramp.
John
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| Seller: AA-bob(0-0-0) | Post#5 - Posted: 01/31/2006 at 01:09:01 |
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John, had an old Savage that suffered much the same problems, Got some of that primer that looks milky but kills the rust (converts it to another inert form of iron oxide, I think) and turns black when it dries...can't remember the name just now, I believe you can get it at most any auto body or marine supply. After it dries a couple days, it'll still be relatively soft, it never gets "Rock" hard, so you want to get this soft primer layer as thin as possible. Sand it down with 320 till its almost gone, it'll still be in the pores of the metal where you need it. Next step is to hit the exterior steel parts twice with light coats of a product called cold galvanize. It is a heavy Zinc bearing primer comes in aerosol cans. Dry thoroughly (bake around 240) and sand with 320 grit between coats, rough the final coat up with 320 and then do your best artsy camo job with rustoleum. The trick is to make sure all the rust is dead as a doornail before you put the paint on. The cold Galvanize will keep it from coming back and the harder Rustoleum will protect the relatively softer cold galvanize. Touch up with rustoleum and if deep scratches use the cold galvanize again first.
This will solve your exterior rust problem for a season or two, but not sure how you're going to protect the internal parts and bore. The parts and bore can be hard industrial chromed (not the stuff on your car bumper)but it is pricey. There was a nickle bearing baked on Teflon coating out a few years ago that looked promising, but haven't heard much about it lately so must haven't worked as well as expected. Nice lookin' strap by the way! |
| Former Seller: GMT(10-0-0) | Post#6 - Posted: 02/01/2006 at 08:41:36 |
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Texastradingpost, or others, were taking reservations, starting 4/06 thru 1/07
Take your 10 gauge Mag., 12 gauge bounce right off unless dead on. If you Water fowl guys wanna go after the Candian big boys we can accomodate - go to: Listing # 7229601, Geese with heads as big as greatfuits 20 + lbs - 2 brd, furnished, decoys, no outfitter needed, 3 weeks time slots already filled, we filled 30 weeks 05, Blaine lake is 25 minutes north of Saskatoon city on Hwy 12,in the Province Saskatchewan, real ['hunter paradise'],larger in sq miles than Montana,Wyoming,N.Dakota, with less than one million population, 400,00 less than US's smallest state. George Taylor, owner (530)722-0900 pst or gt3@charter.net only $300.00 per week |
| Seller: argentine(20-0-0) | Post#7 - Posted: 02/02/2006 at 08:51:06 |
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TTP, I have a hunting buddy who, god bless him, does not care for his guns. He has plenty of money and buys the best but he just does not take care of stuff. About fifteen years ago I found a Zoli 12 ga O&U behind the seat of his truck. It was a gruesome sight. I sent it out to Spradlins in Colorado for their TefKote finish. To make a long story short I have since done two of my own and two of Bob's other guns. My Ruger M77 in 7X57 has a ten year old Spradlins job and it is indestructible. I swear by it. It has been dunked, snowed on and rained on and it still comes back strong. I did my stainless finish muzzleloader inline last year and it was a good move too... Can't go wrong with Spradlins. I don't do my own and I am sure there are cheaper ways but if you want someone else to do it right they are the place to send it to. |
| Former Seller: River City(83-0-0) | Post#8 - Posted: 02/03/2006 at 18:09:25 |
| (no avatar) | I have found the teflon moly bake on finish from Brownells to work very well when properly applied. AA Bob I think the rust treatment you are talking about is called Oxpho. I have seen it in all different colors. The gallon I have now is a light green. This stuff acts just like you described and workes great. |
| Former Seller: Wild West Guns(306-0-1) | Post#9 - Posted: 02/05/2006 at 19:53:19 |
| (no avatar) | hard chrome it then hit it with a can of spray paint...will outlast you |
| Thread Admin: texastradingpost(1317-0-0) | Post#10 - Posted: 03/04/2006 at 01:04:26 |
| (no avatar) | Want to thank everyone for the suggestions. Still have not decided exactly what I am going to do with it, but I am sure it will be one of the ideas here.
Thanks,
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